Why wine bars are not really wine bars any more

And six of the best in Bristol

I was fortunate enough to bump into Fiona Beckett at Hart’s Bakery sometime last spring; I recognised her from her wine column in The Guardian, which I’ve read religiously for years. I’m even happier to say we’ve been friends ever since, and more fortunate still that she’s done me the honour of writing a piece for The Sauce. There’s no one in Bristol better informed when it comes to wine, and therefore this is truly the ultimate guide to Bristol’s best wine bars. Enjoy!

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Punters enjoying their glasses in Cave

With restaurants serving small plates and wine bars serving ambitious food, the dividing line between the two is more blurred than ever — but the clue should be in the name. If it says it’s a wine bar it should be, surely, but is it more than a marketing gimmick?

Wine bars in the sense that I knew them growing up in the 70s and 80s don’t really exist any more. They used to be a place where you could go for an inexpensive glass or a bottle after work or a long (often boozy) evening hanging out with friends — the wine lover’s alternative to the pub. But these days few can afford to run a business that doesn’t include food. The business model is bust.

The current wave of wine bars also differs from the traditional bars in that most major on natural wines. That’s not just a question of ideology — it makes sense to cater for customers who are willing to pay a tenner for a glass or £50-60 a bottle rather than looking for a cheap deal.

Obviously that’s true of many restaurants too, so what exactly makes a wine bar a wine bar?

I’d say it was fundamentally about sharing the love. Despite the food it’s mainly about the wine. Many also function as shops, selling wine to take away. They put on tastings. Given the slightest provocation, they love to talk to you about wine. At length. I’ve no problem with that — it’s what I go to wine bars for.

The other places to check out for a glass are tapas bars, of which Bristol has plenty. Bar 44 in Clifton, Bravas in Cotham and Gambas on Wapping Wharf are all good options. Wine and snacks, Spanish style, but they are at least as much about the wine as the food. Especially if you’re into sherry.

But for wine destinations try one of these — listed alphabetically, as opposed to in order of preference!

Note: Check opening hours as most are open evenings only.

Carmen Street Wine, Stokes Croft

Closed Sunday-Tuesday. No reservations.

An offshoot of neighbouring restaurant Caper & Cure so more food-focused than you might expect from a wine bar in Stokes Croft. Perfectly made croquettes and even bavette and chips — priced separately so not quite as cheap as it might first appear. Though you can just sit and drink wine with chips. What’s not to love? Good selection of wines from small artisan producers. Regular wine events too.

Try: Regard d’Artiste Vin Rouge - a light (11%) red to go with that steak.

Does this ticklemore your fancy?

Cave Wine Bar and Bistro, Bishopston

Closed Sunday-Tuesday

Neighbourhood wine bar and shop towards the top end of Gloucester Road. Into low intervention wines if not quite as messianically as Kask below. Exceptionally good French-influenced food from Charlie Hearn which, apart from the narrow bar-like space, gives it more of a restaurant—or at least bistro—feel. Definitely has a Parisian vibe. One of my personal favourites.

Try: St Cyrgues Salamandre - baby steps into orange wine.

A well-labelled wine shelf

Cotto Wine Bar and Kitchen, St Stephen’s Street

Closed Sunday and Monday

Part of the Bianchis group, Cotto has the virtue of being slap bang in the middle of town — and for some, one of the few wine bars that doesn’t major on natural wines. You’ll drink best if you stick to Italian. The Bianchis boys love an Italian wine. There are great snacks — the oyster mushroom fritti with hot honey and black garlic is outrageously good. As is the rigatoni cacio e pepe.

Try: I Mastri Vernacoli Pinot Bianco, a good value smooth dry white from Trentino (there’s 20% off wine to take home.)

Clue’s in the name

Kask, Bedminster (and coming soon to Cheltenham Road)

Closed Monday and Tuesday

“We say no to shit wine” states Kask proudly and you’ve got to love them for it. If you’re a natty wine lover and like to explore the geekier corners of the wine world this is where to hang out. They had a tasting with a Uruguayan natural winemaker the other day. That’s niche.

It’s also a wine bar in the traditional sense of just serving charcuterie and cheese but they have an offshoot over the road, Kitchen by Kask, which hosts regular pop-ups (currently Frankie’s Fried Chicken but check their Instagram for updates). It’s also a good place to hang out in the summer as they have a garden at the back. And for Beaujolais Nouveau in November which they always do well.

Try: whatever they have as a special. ‘Exy but Sexy’ Brazilian sparkling wine? Go for it!

No shit wine in sight

Port o’Bristol, Wapping Wharf

Closed Monday-Wednesday

This is not only the smallest wine bar in Bristol, it’s probably the smallest in the UK - and the hub of the Portuguese community who recently turned out in force to celebrate the anniversary of the Carnation Revolution or ‘Freedom Day’, which overthrew the then dictatorship back in 1974. They offer a small but well-chosen selection of wines which the owners ship over from Portugal and which you can also buy to take away. No food, although you can pick up something from the many surrounding outlets in Wapping Wharf. Cosy and friendly.

Try: their thirst quenching Thetis Vinho Verde.

Wine for sale by sail

Snobby’s, Redland

Closed Sunday and Monday

Despite the cringe-inducing name which the owner, Nick Bethell, staunchly resists changing, this is a thoroughly good wine bar with a wide-ranging list and a great selection by the glass. Mainly French though the food — which is excellent — is southern Italian. You can book for just a drink though. “Any booking after 8.15pm gets the table until midnight”, states the website “so if you want to get stuck into a long session that’s the way to do it!” They have older vintages too. The best wine bar to enjoy a serious bottle.

Try: The Gutswein German spätburgunder (pinot noir). You didn’t know Germany made good reds? Here’s your chance to find out.

The name may turn people off but you can’t deny it is memorable

All words and photos by Fiona Beckett — Bristol-based food and drink writer and former Guardian wine columnist. Fiona has her own Substack, Eat This, Drink That, with regular weekly money-saving wine tips, recipes and restaurant and travel recommendations. Compulsory reading for any wine lover!

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